I can't decide whether or not this is a case of life's being too short, but last week I went to an excellent evening of indulgence run by the Cambridge Cheese Company. As well as fine cheese (including a Christmas offering of a glorious mature Alpage Gruyere aged for 18 months in the Cheese Company's cellars), canapes, and cold meats, we were treated to a quiche made with a whole Epoise cheese. This is extreme quiche making - Epoise isn't the most gentle of cheeses - for real men. If, like wine, you can measure the quality of a quiche by its 'length', then this is a 12-hour quiche and must be called historic. I quite liked the result, but as Paul Sutton-Adams (the owner of the company) suggested, perhaps half an Epoise would have sufficed. (RJB)

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