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Bin-ends 20/01/2004

I have had a few good fizzes recently - a half bottle of Selosse with lunch at the Square was a lovely, rich, complex wine showing the effects of lengthy cask ageing, I suspect. It might be a bit much as an aperitif, but with a meal it was excellent. Gosset's 1996 is a star and worth looking out for if you want a top wine from this classic ageworthy vintage and their Rose too is excellent. (Toby)

An Oddbins Fine Wine Burgundy tasting was a bit disappointing, with a lot of not inexpensive wines from average mainstream producers. The buying was rather sharper here a few years ago, and now the estates they found then have become too expensive (like the whites I recall buying from the likes of Niellon and Ramonet). And they don't seem to have found interesting replacements. The pick was a 1er Cru St Aubin 2001 from Morey, but £23.50 is quite a price for the appellation. (Toby)

The Edinburgh Wine Companyis the newly established "private client" arm of Edinburgh wholesalers "Wine Importers" which was launched at a large tasting recently in Edinburgh. I feel the list relies a bit too much on larger negociants like Bouchard (who do now at least make decent wine) and Chapoutier. But as well as the excellent Italian Estate I write briefly about below I tasted a good basic Sancerre from Christian Salmon, a fine Pouilly Fuisse Clos Reissier from Perraton and a good Minervois from Pierre Cros. It wasn't at the tasting, but they also have Champagne from the under-rated house of Joseph Perrier. (Toby)

Very much the highlight of the Edinburgh Wine Company's recent tasting was a range of wines from Veneto producer Guerriere Rizzardi. The house style was very evident from their Soave Classico through an attractive unoaked Chardonnay, a Bardolino, the Valpolicella Classico Pojega to the Castello Guerriere 1998 with its complex cherry fruit hinting at Amarone. Everything was unforced, understated, authentic, pure, elegant and above all very drinkable. You could say this is conservative winemaking, but I like it - perhaps it is a bit like Allegrini before they began to be seduced by new oak. These are not expensive wines (about 6-12 pounds) and well worth a try if you see any of them. (Toby)



added to Fine Wine Diary 20/01/2004   Return to top