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Wine group at E. McC's 31/05/2004 (TNB)

Some pleasant memories were stirred by editing my notes on a wine group dinner. Old white Graves is a lovely thing: Haut Brion 1977 was delightful, but very good rather than great; Laville Haut Brion 1980 dry, severe but opened up to be quite drinkable; Carbonnieux 1971 splendidly complex but this bottle at least was a bit woody - a shame because the very best old whites from this estate are stunning.

What to make of a flight of six 1988 Brunellos (no riservas among them)? The wines were surprisingly similar with brambley fruit - all drinkable, some a little drier and showing their age more than others, all ** to *** standard. It suggests that Riservas from this vintage could well be pretty good drinking now.

Fonseca 1983 was at least very good, coming fairly close to maturity now - a good rather than great Fonseca. Gould Campbell 1970 was showing rather above its reputation (which seems to be middling rather than top) - I certainly took a shine to it and gave it five stars. It was a UK bottling too (which I feel is not a negative point with Port) by "Clode and Baker".

Dinner added to Fine Wine Diary 11/08/2004   Return to top