Some pleasant memories were stirred by editing my notes on a wine group dinner. Old white Graves is a lovely thing: Haut Brion 1977 was delightful, but very good rather than great; Laville Haut Brion 1980 dry, severe but opened up to be quite drinkable; Carbonnieux 1971 splendidly complex but this bottle at least was a bit woody - a shame because the very best old whites from this estate are stunning.

What to make of a flight of six 1988 Brunellos (no riservas among them)? The wines were surprisingly similar with brambley fruit - all drinkable, some a little drier and showing their age more than others, all to standard. It suggests that Riservas from this vintage could well be pretty good drinking now.

Fonseca 1983 was at least very good, coming fairly close to maturity now - a good rather than great Fonseca. Gould Campbell 1970 was showing rather above its reputation (which seems to be middling rather than top) - I certainly took a shine to it and gave it five stars. It was a UK bottling too (which I feel is not a negative point with Port) by "Clode and Baker".

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