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F.X. Pichler at the SuperBOWL 23/10/2004 (TNB)

I think this was my first exposure to the likely horrors of 2003, a vintage which I suspect from reports to have produced rather rich wines tending to flab all over Europe. Perhaps global warming really is a serious problem.

Pichler's 2003's were actually very good wines although I preferred the older vintages in every case for the extra structure which revealed their minerality much more. These are very serious wines although I have to admit that although I admire the great estates of the Wachau (of which this is undoubtably one), I don't buy the wines much myself. I find them a bit much sometimes - a bit serious and humourless, less engaging than the competition from other great areas. I think that's a very personal thing since the quality is very obviously in the bottle.

I wonder if the enthusiasm for Gruner Veltliner has got a bit out of hand too. It is a very good minor grape and I do like it but I thought on the whole it looked a bit simple compared to the Rieslings. The notion (did it originate from Jancis?) that G-V might rival white Burgundy seems a bit fanciful to me!


Tasting report added to Fine Wine Diary 05/02/2005   Return to top