No great surprises at a recent small dinner in which all the wines sang. Prejudices confirmed in order were: Josph Perrier is an under-rated Champagne house; the top white Graves are incomparably exciting wines; 1982 is a great Bordeaux vintage; Magdelaine and Canon are fine properties; there is nothing quite like Ausone. One prejudice lost a little ground - I am not a particular fan of Coutet but I must say the 89 is a very good wine.

I was very taken with the 82 Ausone, although perhaps one could imagine a larger or a firmer wine that might be even more exciting. The usual authorities seem unsure about it: Parker 90? wonders where it is going; Coats 13.5-15 says it is "by no means great"; Broadbent runs to 4-stars and it reminds him of Daphne's rice pudding. I would rate it higher than any of those but perhaps partly because I love the stylish individuality of the property's wines.

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