It was a bit sad to see how little the Germans seem to care for their classic wines these days. The restauranats that do have them often try to put you off: "you do realise that's a sweet wine sir" if you order anything without "trocken" on the label.

On the other hand, we ate unexpectedly well. The restaurant at the Schlosshotel in Grunwald was wildly over the top (as indeed is the hotel generally) and probably deserves its Michelin star despite the tendancy to stodgyness in food and service. I can thoroughly recommend "Paris-Moskau" for a serious meal - it served us a top-class meal. Finally a smaller neighbourhood restaurant "Jolesch" in Kreuzberg produced a really good unpretentious meal in busy, friendly surroundings. It has an Austrian theme and a smattering of the top producers on a very reasonably-priced wine list.

---