A trip westwards with a few pals to a Smith-Haut-Lafite tasting and dinner was quite fun, except for sharing the last train home with some drunk and despondent Rangers supporters. This is not a property I'd have rushed to go and taste, left to myself - they have a reputation for being in the forefront of the forward style of modern Bordeaux.

That's certainly what I found, although I would say too that the wines are not tannic, extracted, oaky monsters - in fact they are quite elegant and if they have a fault it is perhaps a lack of depth. And the style is definitely quite forward - of the 2000, 1999, 1998 and 1996 only the last was not entirely ready to drink and even that may not have the stuffing to evolve gracefully for very long.

Mind you, judging by wine-searcher the price is not too outrageous and perhaps the wines might be a good option if one likes a fairly modern style and is not prepared to cellar. Of their type, they are good drinking.

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