- Riesling Cuvee Frederic Emile 1990 (Trimbach) Seems a little tired at first, but it's just that cellar temperature is too cold. As it warms up, lovely, refined mature riesling character emerges. Bone dry, refined, good intensity: it goes very well with food (in this case with garlic chicken). Bare
- Zobinger Heiligenstein Riesling Alte Reben Trocken 1994 (Brundlmayer) Lovely middle weight Riesling showing good maturity but with years still ahead of it. Good minerality and purity of flavours – clearly old Riesling without being overpoweringly so.
- Chateauneuf-du-Pape Blanc 1988 (Chateau de Beaucastel) It turns out I last had this in 1999, when I suggested that it needed to open out a bit. I was rather disappointed at the time. Well it has opened out, but is still far from showing anywhere close to being over mature even thirteen years later. Rather lovely – not quite one thing or the other, but then again I don’t get to drink a huge amount of old Rousanne. Some custard powder on the palate, and good length. I think this might still get better, but top for now.
- Nerello Mascalese Nonna Concetta 2007 (Calabretta)
A new winery to me and a new grape variety for me also which according to Wikipedia is related to Sangiovese. It certainly has the smoked salmon nose I often associate with Chianti or Rioja, which probably doesn’t mean much to others, but which is the trigger smell that works for me (in a good way!). The fruit feels warm – as one might expect coming from the slopes of Etna - without being alcoholically hot and the wine is drinking well now. Lovely with food: porchetta in this instance.
And finishing off the day (and the porchetta) once TNB had left and a friend had arrived to finish off the remnants of the whites above . . .
- Blanc de Noir Spatburgunder Trocken 2011 (Mayschoss) Brought by said friend that very day from Frankfurt. A light spritz, and a good palate cleanser and refresher. Would be a rather good summer evening wine.
- Les Tourelles de Longueville 1999 Drinking very well and keeping to textbook Pauillac. Years ahead still. A good
Well worth trying, if you haven't already. The wine list has a lot of good stuff on it at mark-ups that are pretty reasonable. The wines are those of a set flight to accompany the tasting menu.
- Saint-Bris Fie Gris Corps de Garde 2008 (Dom. Goissot) At a lovely stage of development. Fresh, attractive fruit with a touch of evolution. Refined Sauvignon blanc with just a touch of minerality. A strong
- Cairanne 2010 (Domaine de l'Horatoire St Martin) Fairly light on the nose, but with a nice, broad white-Rhone palate. Good intensity. Bare
- Pinot Auxerrois Vieille Vigne "H" 2008 (Josmeyer) Pleasant enough, but rather light and a bit short. Neither of us was so impressed by this.
- Hautes-Cotes de Nuits Vieilles Vignes 2009 (Olivier Jouan) Very pure beetroot and plum skin pinot fruit. Not that complex, but very attractive and excellent with the food (duck). In context, possibly
- Gevrey Chambertin En Pallud 2006 (Maume) Quite bright, still pretty young. High-toned fruit but drinking well now although it will improve. This is always an excellent wine from this grower. Bare
- Muscat de Rivesaltes, Les Enfant Sauvages 2011 Essence of grapeyness, with something about it that suggested a fruit-based spirit. Quite light on its feet for the style. Hard to justify, but perpaps even
- Munsterer Rheinberg Auslese 2009 (Goettelman) Quite young for riesling, with a "dessert" sweetness level. Well made, but doesn't shout much beyond that to us. Perhaps it is just a question of time, but it is hard to say. Top