Wine group Xmas dinner 29/12/2009 (TNB)

• Graacher Himmelreich Kabinett 1992 (J-J. Prum) Still quite spritzy. Pretty dry. Good intensity. Very drinkable. Top
• Champagne Comtesse Marie de France 1988 (P. Bara) Quite evolved - mushrooms, underbrush, nice fruit. Very good. Top
• Savenniere Roche aux Moins 1990 (Soulez) Dry and stony. Pretty much at peak. Top
• Meursault 1er cru Perrieres 1996 (Jadot) Stony, nice sense of terroir, nice acidty, totally fresh but only moderate concentration. Bare
• Puligny-Montrachet 1er cru Perrierers 1990 (Sauzet) A bit maderised, nice nose though. There are fresher bottles apparently.
• Brunello 2004 (Il Poggione) Modern-styled, hot finish, pleasant fruit. Not quite my sort of thing.
• Clos des Papes 1983 Absolutely gorgeous. Mineral, dense fruit, completely authoritative. Easy
• Clos de la Roche Grand Cru 1996 (H. Lignier) Interesting comparison with the 95 - angular, high-acid, yet silky and sophisticated. Pretty much ready. Top
• Clos de la Roche Grand Cru 1995 (H. Lignier) More tannic. Firmer, complex. Will be very fine.
• Clos Vougeot Grand Cru 1993 (Meo-Camuzet) Very lovely. Comparison with the Mortet: more oak, less depth. But still a very good wine.
• Clos Vougeot Grand Cru 1993 (Mortet) More pure fragrant and open than the Meo, lovely unforced fruit, very complex.
• Barolo Gran Bussia 1989 (Aldo Conterno) I neglected to take a note! Memory a bit unclear now.
• Clos Rene 1961 Nice smoky nose. Palate alive but simple and short.