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Diary index

Wine group at A.D.'s 28/02/2005 (TNB)

With LJM in Cambridge 19/02/2005 (RJB)

A Gentaz dinner 19/02/2005 (TNB)

Last night 17/02/2005 (TNB)

The Diary - February 2005

Wine group at A.D.'s 28/02/2005 (TNB)

Tasting notes added to Fine Wine Diary 21/03/2005   Return to top

With LJM in Cambridge 19/02/2005 (RJB)

I spent the day moving paving slabs (heavy and intense) and making fish stock (light and intense). The stock was poured over some cod, sea bass, spinach and creme fraiche (this isn't Fine Wine Dairy, but it does pay to get decent creme fraiche) and then baked in the oven with a little grated parmesan. Stroganoff, excellent cheeses from the Cambridge Cheese Company and a passion fruit tart from Maison Blanc in Oxford (that my daughter was very passionate about) followed.
  • Champagne Brut 1989 (de Venoge) Good fizz which is perhaps just beginning to tire. Medium weight and with a hint of oxidation. Top ***
  • Champagne Grand Brut 1992 (Perrier-Jouet) Rather simple after the de Venoge – lighter weight. Some complexity emerges after a while in the glass. ***
  • Wiltinger braune Kupp Riesling Kabinett 1994 (Egon Muller) This was the sort of bottle you would avoid even on the most generous of bin-end offers: the label stained and some evidence that the wine was seeping through the cork and dribbling down the capsule. However, the wine inside was lovely. This was as tight a Riesling as you could hope to taste with classic minerality and finely tuned acidity. A really fine effort with time ahead. ***(*)
  • Chateau Talbot 1982 One of those wines where the first sniff tells you that you are in the presence of something special. Glorious sweet St Julien fruit with a palate that is on first taste deceptively simple. None of the ‘typical Talbot whiff of the barnyard’ that Broadbent notes, but rather, on this showing, a wine of great purity and lasting structure. Superb, and at a glorious peak. *****
  • Chateau Cadet Piola 1985 From magnum. I guess this was always going to be a come down after the previous wine (I rather naughtily tasted them in this order when others at the table were more conventional in their drinking order). This is reliable stuff that is drinking well with its tarry, coffee and chocolate overtones. Good claret that, enjoyable though it is (I am drinking it whilst typing these notes), gets relegated, for now, to the luncheon division. A good ***
  • Beerenauslese Grande Cuvee 1991 (Kracher) From a half. Delicious and aging rather well. Good apricoty acidity and with a sweetness that is verging on being oversweet, but which is contained within the framework of the wine. I think this will age into something truly great. ****(*)
Tasting notes added to Fine Wine Diary 20/02/2005   Return to top

A Gentaz dinner 19/02/2005 (TNB)

Tasting notes added to Fine Wine Diary 02/04/2005   Return to top

Last night 17/02/2005 (TNB)

  • Chassagne Montrachet Ruchottes 1996 (Ramonet) Pale tangerine colour in a decanter. Intensely gingery on the nose (as Ramonet's wines often are) but to a grotesque degree. Rather horrible palate - probably just oxidised but in a rather odd way. A day later the oxidation aspect less apparent but still extravagently gingery and with a dull flatness. No Stars
  • Chassagne Montrachet Baudines 1996 (B. Morey) Much more what one expects - plenty of acid, quite juicy, nice fruit. ***
  • Haut Bailly 1996 Quite leafy liquid tobacco. This seems to have gone backwards a bit since I last tasted it - clearly needs a few years but good drinking now too. ***(*) (just)
Tasting notes added to Fine Wine Diary 17/02/2005   Return to top