26/02/2006 (RJB)

• Gerard Bertrand Terroir Coteaux du Languedoc 2002 According to the front label 'An original blend of 95% SYRAH'; according to the back label a 'wonderful accompaniment to chicken dishes, goat's cheese tart or full flavoured cheeses' and 'Suitable for vegetarians and vegans'. Unlike the labelling, the wine isn't too contrived. Good balance and good red fruit depth. It will probably improve with a few years age. By the way, the other 5% is Mouvedre [sic]. Just
• Saint-Joseph Cuvee Ro-Ree 2002 (Domaine Cheze) I wasn't expecting much of this - Sunday evening combined with a general foreboding about white Rhones. What a revelation though! Glorious full bodied stuff with a lovely toffee and honeysuckle length to the palate. A wine I could drink and drink - and not just on Sundays.

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At Maresfield with TNB 25/02/2006 (RJB)

• Champagne Blanc-de-blancs 1976 (Diebolt-Valois) Good old fizz with touches of honey, wood and aniseed. Medium bodied and with the acidity to keep the mature flavours together.
• Champagne 1996 (Pol Roger) A disappointing wine in some sense. Quite winey, and doesn't really have the class one expects. Relatively (for a big name from '96) rather simple and lacking the drama and complexity of something to tuck away for the future. Possibly an off form bottle.

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A postscript to the Montrose dinner 23/02/2006 (TNB)

• St Joseph blanc Clos de l'Arbalestrier 1998 (Florentin) Exotic, rich, old-fashioned. Splendid.
• Batard Montrachet 1994 (Fontaine-Gagnard) Peachy, exotic, quite evolved. Made to drink fairly young, but has that Grand Cru something about it. Bare
• Barolo Monfortino 1998 (G. Conterno) So floral, pure and beautiful. Intense, dry. Approachable but lots of underlying structure. Completely gorgeous.
• Chateau Montrose 1993 Mineral, very attractive, drinking nicely. plus.
• Chateau Montrose 1991 Rounder and a bit more concentrated. Mineral finish. Very good. Still fairly young.
• Chateau Montrose 1989 Much more reserved. Dense. Very concentrated - more balanced than the 90. Brilliant.
• Chateau Montrose 1988 Leaner, sea breezes. Very classic. Lovely. (In time the 89 will be the better wine I guess.)
• Chateau Montrose 1978 Lighter nose. Edgy finish. Not a bad 78.
• Chateau Montrose 1964 (E.B. by Ellis) Not edgy like the last time. Very fine. Piquant. Complex. Very classic.

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Italian offline at Centotre 22/02/2006 (TNB)

Thanks to everybody for bringing interesting and enjoyable wines, and to Centotre for feeding us well.

• Monferrato Alteserre Bianco 2000 (Bava) Dry, rich, appetising. Long. Pretty nice. I feel a bit of barrique aging is aiming at an international market, but it is good. I'd like to sit down and drink a few glasses one evening. Maybe even scrapes
• Were Dreams 2003 (Jermann) Quite Burgundian weight. Oaky (but quite well handled) Chardonnay. Classy - needs time though. I find the Tunina a bit more individual but this is pretty good. Bare
• Vintage Tunina 2002 (Jermann) As usual, a melange of flavours. Delicious. Bare
• Kolbenhof Gewurztraminer Alto Adige 2004 (Hofstatter) Turkish Delight. Dry. Could be a bit tiring although perhaps Gewurz is ever that way. Nice balance of rose-scented fruit with a dry palate. Good length. Another wine I'dlike to try "properly". A good
• Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia 1999 (Felsina Berardenga) Big-scaled wine - top Chianti as I'd expect from this wine in such a fine vintage. Bare
• Flaccianello della Pieve 1996 (Fontodi) Stinky at first - blows off to reveal a really good taught, balanced wine. Rather good, I think. Bare
• Casalferro 2000 (Ricasoli) Herby. Good balance. Very drinkable.
• Tassinaia 2000 (Castello del Terriccio) Suave, silky, dry. Quite structured. Easy
• Brunello 1997 (Barbi) A bit dry - might improve but seems a bit austere. But rather a nice nose.
• Barolo Arborina 1999 (Elio Altare) Scented nose but tannic. Serious, I find the new oak tannins a bit more difficult young than the traditional style. But the oak is done well and terroir shows through. Pretty concentrated - fine wine. This has quite a lot of quality and might evolve well in a Sandrone sort of way.
• Barolo Cannubi Boschis 1993 (Sandrone) Light elegant, quite fine. I feel I've had slightly better bottles of this. Top
• Barolo Bricco delle Viole 1988 (G.D. Vajra) More body but perhaps a touch less well delineated than the Sandrone. Very nice approaching maturity. Bare
• Barolo Monprivato 1982 (G. Mascarello) So delicate, mineral, fine and long. Just ready.
• Burdese 2002 (Planeta) A bit extracted and a bitter for my palate. Not my sort of thing, although there's alot of wine in the glass. Perhaps I might warm to it with more time. Good
• Amarone Vaio Armaron 1999 (Aligheri) Dry, savoury, cooked fruits. Mushrooms, nuts. Really good Amarone. Maybe even
• Recioto di Soave Acinatium 2002 (Suavia) Nice way to finish - well-balanced and delicious. Top

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At J.M.'s 16/02/2006 (TNB)

• Meursault Charmes 2000 (Henri Boillot) Dry, juicy, mineral, nicely made. A bit thin on the mid-palate initially but it fills out with time. Nice. Bare even.
• Meursault 2000 (Mikulski) A bit more modern-styled. Pleasantly creamy.
• Gevrey Chambertin Cazetieres 1983 (Clair-Dau) Good farmyardy, mature Burgundy - quite piquant and perhaps a touch rough with marked tannins. Nice drinking but fades a little in the glass.

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04/02/2006 (RJB)

• Maestrale Barbera Alba 2000 Rather dilute, dull and uninteresting.
• Chateau Val Joanis 2000 Cotes du Luberon Past it - horrible.
• Nebbiolo 1996 Private Reserve (L. A. Cetto) A bit tough and tannic, but with good texture. Could do with a bit more fruit. More drinkable than I thought it would be.

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