Misc 21/01/2013 (TNB)

• Saarburger Riesling Trocken Alte Reben 2011 (Zilliken) Dry, sherberty, nicely balanced, a touch of minerality but I don't get a huge kick out of this. It's very young of course, and certainly quite good, but I'm not tempted to rush out and buy lots. Bare and will improve at least a bit.
• Don Gonzalo Oloroso VOS (Valdespino) There's a touch of that "licking a mahogony wardrobe" of fine Oloroso, quite tangy and with loads of grip. Plenty of raisiny fruit too. It lacks the refinement of the best wines - particularly of a great VORS, but it is very good. I do love the richness with the dry austerity and individuality of real Oloroso. Bare even.

---

At home 20/01/2013 (TNB)

• Felseneck Riesling Trocken 2010 (Schafer-Frolich) Dumb at first, then a rather lovely, well-delineated peachy fruit with decent length and a nice balance. This is the "basic" wine - there is also a Grosses Gewachs which on this basis I would like to try.
• Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru 2001 (Maume) Decent Burgundy, but a bit pinched and dry. I feel I have had better bottles of this wine. Possibly a victim of "aromatic deviation" - the analogue for reds of poor-cork pox for whites, although there are lots of "ifs" and "buts" attached to whether you believe in that. This bottle a bare

---

The Weekend 13/01/2013 (TNB)

• Gaisbohl GC 2011 (Burklin-Wolf) I like the way that trocken versions of these Pfalz wines keep all the broad gentleness of Riesling from the area, but seem to pick up extra clarity over the sweeter versions. Young Riesling is always difficult but this seems very stylish with an extra spiceyness compared to the Pechstein tasted recently - but the latter wine has the edge in sheer loveliness. This though is really good and needs at least a couple of years. A strong
• Leckerberg Riesling Trocken 2008 (Winter) From Dittelsheim in the Rheinhessen, this seemed concentrated, well made and decently long but a bit lacking in elegance and excitement last night. Returning tonight it has opened up a bit, reminding me in a way of Nikolaihof wines from the Wachau: I think it needs just a few more years to open out. Pretty good - rising to a top at least.
• Bandol La Tourtine 1999 (Tempier) Drinking rather nicely now - the style seems a bit less rustic than some older vintages. Slips down very easily. Top

---

At home 06/01/2013 (TNB)

• Pechstein GC 2009 (Burkloin-Wolf) My German trocken experiment continues with what might have been called "Forster Pechstein somethinglese trocken" in the old days. You can see why they choose to simplify. There is a bit of CO2 at first (presumably intentional) and then as it opens out it is as limpid and clear as a mountain stream: bone-dry without a hint of austerity. At first, it seems a little unforthcoming, but as it warms or breathes it is delightful. On the second night (as I write this) one can see where it may go, with some hints of a resinous (kerosene?) complexity. Drinking this, I can empathise with the suggestion that (good) dry riesling can provide a more transparent rendition of terroir. Very fine. A strong at least.
• Terrasses du Larzac 2008 (Mas Jullien) Continuing with "the shock of the new" (to me at least), what about this Languedoc estate, whose wines I do not recall having tried before? Good, certainly. At first, there is a grenache, boiled-sweet character. After a while, there is minerality that gets stronger with some breathing. With resolution in a year or two, this also could be lovely. even.

---

At home 03/01/2013 (TNB)

• Balbas 1986 Ribera del Duero, rather ancient and lurking in the cellar. Good appearance but any interest has rather faded, as is hardly surprising. Mature wine obsessives might find it a decent drink.
• Fleurie, Clos de la Roilette 2011 (Coudert Pere et Fils) I liked the 2010 from here, but this is a bit less substantial all round. Decent enough fruit and a nice streak of minerality, but in the end pleasantly quaffable rather than really interesting. A good

---