Fine Wine Diary

30/06/1996 (RJB)

Notarpanaro, Rosso del Salento 1988, Cosimo Taurino (4.99 Majestics). Two bottles tasted over the weekend. Lovely fragrant nose - violets, meat, leather and pepper. Quite gutsy wine with time ahead of it. A bargain. 90
Barbera d'Asti Superiore 1991, Bava (7.99 Majestics) Not totally convinced by this - lacking the concentration that might be expected. Pleasant, and will probably be better in a couple of years. Perhaps also a bit dumb at the moment. 85
Villa Moscatel 1995, Gagliardo Very refreshing, and gluggable. Fizzy grape must. 85

Tasting notes added to Fine Wine Diary 30/06/1996 Return to top

29/06/1996 (TNB)

Taittinger 90 Concentrated, beautifully balanced, suprisingly approachable. Delicious. 90+
Condrieu Chaillets Vielle vignes 94 (Cuilleron) Impressive concentration, but for me the oak (while not overdone) doesn't really go so well with Condrieu fruit -- one looses the delicious apricot flavours. A fine wine, but I'm not so keen!
Tokay vielle vignes 94 (Mann) Slight doubts about the concentration - sometimes seems a little watery. At others, it seemed rather good. I'm a bit unsure.
Cote Rotie Vallieres 90 (Champet) Luscious, brambly fruit and smokey bacon. I like this! 90.

Also tasted at Petit Blanc: Trappiche Malbec (OK, but a bit thin) and Cabernet (big soft and pleasant).

Tasting notes added to Fine Wine Diary 29/06/1996 Return to top

24/06/1996 (RJB)

Salice Salentino Riserva 1993, Cosimo Taurino (4.99 Majestics). Made on the stiletto heel of the Italian Peninsula from 80% Negroamaro and 20% Malvasia Nera according to the label which also suggests "ancorking the bottle at least one hour before pouring". Well, once "ancorked" this wine certainly did develop. Initially dumb it opened out into a mushroomy, dried meat and peppery nose. Good, slightly citric, acidity on the palate. 89

Tasting notes added to Fine Wine Diary 24/06/1996 Return to top

23/06/1996 (RJB)

Sainsbury's 1985 Riesling Spatlese Moseland Tasted blind I thought it a 1990 Kabinet. Youthful fruit with a touch of woodiness. 84
Gewurztraminer Heimbourg 1991, Zind-Humbrecht Good wine with surprising elegance for its depth. 89
Pol Roger, White Foil Showing very well - don't know how much storage it's had. Good acidity and balance. 87
Chateau Beau Rivage 1961 From a half. Sweet mushroomy fruit - good medium weight mature claret. 88
Chateauneuf du Pape Les Cailloux 1990, Brunel Lovely zingy fruit, with excellent balance and length. 90
Chateau l'Hospitalet 1994 La Clape, Cot. de Languedoc Custard powder white made from white Rhone grapes I believe (Bourbolanc?). Good length, and a weight but refined feel in the mouth. 86
Wittlicher Lay 1976 Beerenauslese, Beth & Co. From a half. OK, but a bit lacking in class. 84
Chateau de Malle 1991, Sauterne Gorgeous Peaches and lanolin botrytised nose. Good balancing acidity. 90
Pouilly-Vinzelles Les Quarts 1989, Caves des Grand Crus Blanc From a half. Pleasant medium weight Chardonnay. Fading austerity producing gingery overtones. 86
Chateau Vignelaure 1988, d'Aix en Provence From a half. Drying out and volatile. Fruit has vanished (if there was ever any there). 75
Chateau Vignelaure 1990 From a half. Better than the 1988, but lacking in fruit and charm. Some tannin, but I can't see this improving. 80
Chianti Classico Riserva 1989, Villa Antinori Light, with (initially) a beefy nose. Pleasant but lacking guts. 83

Tasting notes added to Fine Wine Diary 23/06/1996 Return to top

23/06/1996 (TNB)

Trittenheimer Apotheke uslese 83 (Grans Fassian) Rich fresh fruit, with spicy/petrolly characters. Slightly sweeter, and not as "racy" as one might like, but pleasant. 87
Haarder Burgergarten Riesling spatlese halbtrocken 90 (Muller-Catoir) Lost the extrovert young M-C quality, and now a pleasant refined wine. I begin to think that M-C wines do not improve a lot in bottle, but it would be nice to be proved wrong! 86.
Mount Edelstone 91 (Henschke) Deep unevolved colour. Classy Northern Rhone smokey syrah nose. In the mouth on the edge of jammyness, and not really tight enough for real greatness. 88.

Tasting notes added to Fine Wine Diary 23/06/1996 Return to top

OFW Champagne tasting 20/06/1996 (TNB)

Billecart Salmon NV Lovely autolytic doughy nose, with almost grapey extrovert fruit. In the mouth, larger and less elegant than I expect from this house, and a shade sweeter. 86. (19.49)
Billecart Salmon Rose NV Delicate rose petal nose, elegant and dry in the mouth. 88 (26.99)
Billecart Salmon Blanc de blanc 86 Slightly sulphury? Buttery, quite refined, has aged nicely, but fruit slightly weak (a feature of 86's?). 89 (29.99)
Billecart Salmon 89 Austere and closed, or possibly just hollow. Not at all convinced about this. ?? (29.99)
Billecart Salmon 86 Similar to the 86 B de B. Stylish, nicely evolved, but not terribly concentrated fruit. 89. (29.99)
Billecart Salmon 82 Quite evolved, oxidative characters, a pleasant rounded orangyness. Not a great 82, but pleasant. 90. (28.99)
Henri Harlin 85 Bizarre striking herby and gingery nose, limes. In the mouth a bit new world -- slightly sweet and short. 84 (15.99)
Dom Perignon 85 Not quite as striking as I remember, but restrained and beautifully balanced. Quite long 91. (61.99)
Krug Grand Cuvee NV Gorgeous, with such classy vanillan wood character with concentrated fruit. If one had to criticise (and I am not much inclined to) the fruit is a bit monolithic. Long, and lovely! 93 (66.49)

Tasting notes added to Fine Wine Diary 20/06/1996 Return to top

Southern Italian wines at V&C with Michael Garner 18/06/1996 (TNB)

Castel del Monte "Rupicolo" 94 (Rivera) Boiled sweety, modern well made summer barbecue wine. Pleasant enough. 81 (4.99)
Castel del Monte "Il falcone" 92 (Rivera) More serious, with more Montepuliciano and less Uva di Troia than the above (know your Italian grapes). Nice colour, showing some maturity, decent structure, honey, tobacco with some vanilla. Not long enough to sugest extended cellaring, but a nice wine. 85 (7.70)
Pier delle Vigne 91 (Botromagno) Aglianico and Montepulciano blend. Chestnutty Italian colour, but of the healthy looking sort. Striking herby nose (Campari?) rich fruits, quite tannic and rich. Probably for drinking soonish. 87 (8.25)
Aglianico del Vulture 93 (Paternoster) An odd grape. Quite tannic, with good concentration of something a bit anonymous. Might be quite good. 85 (8.69)
Aglianico del Vulture Riserva "Vigna Caselle" 90 (D'Angelo) Italian chestnut colour with very oxodative nose, and finishes austere and rather short. 81 (11.00)
Ciro 94 (Librandi) The gaglioppo grape here. Watery rim, oxidative character, rather sweet, don't go for this at all 80. (5.99)
Ciro Riserva "Duca Sanfelice" (Librandi) The same, only more so. (R.P. seems to like these wines, by the way!) 80 (9.95)
Copertino Riserva 93 (Cantina Sociale Copertino) Local co-op wine, made by the regions leading winemaker (who does all the wines except the first two). Negroamaro plus something else. Herby, rich, quite sweet. Decent stuff. 83. (5.99)
Salice Salentino Riserva 93 (Taurino) Grapes as above, but this high-toned wine is a really class act. Medium deep red, with a complex balanced nose and gorgeous in the mouth. (R.P. is right about this one!) 90 (6.45, but apparantly also available a bit cheaper in -- you've guessed it -- Safeway!)

Tasting notes added to Fine Wine Diary 18/06/1996 Return to top

German wines, Majestics 16/06/1996 (RJB)

Domdechant Werner Hocheimer Kirchenstuck Riesling 1995 Clean but rather simple and sugary. 84
Riesling 1995, Grans Fassian A touch rough, but basically OK (or should that be OK and basic?). 83
Rudesheimer Drachenstein Riesling 1993, Georg Breuer Doesn't do much for dental enamel (and would probably do a pretty good job on a bath). 81
Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett 1987, Dr Loosen Musty - poor wine.
Mulheimer Helenkloster Riesling Spatlese 1989, Max Ferd Richter OK but a bit thin. 84
Erdener Treppchen Riesling Auslese 1989, Dr Loosen A bit "heavy", but some good acidity and nicish balance. a bit dilute at the end. 86

Tasting notes added to Fine Wine Diary 16/06/1996 Return to top

A fine wine evening at Tom's 15/06/1996 (RJB)

Jasnieres Cuvee Prestige 1993, Aubert de Rycke From magnum. Good acidity with a touch of ripe sweetness. 85
Clos de Bourg Moulleux 1976, Huet Probably not in the best of condition since both colour and flavours indicated some oxidation. Felt rather past it, which it shouldn't be.
Johanisberger Erntebringer Riesling Spatlese 1964, Imported by Percy Fox Dry, caraway seed nose. A bit flat. Opened up later in the evening - more petrolly. Not unpleasant, but dead. 82-
"Y" 1985, d'Yquem Lovely wine. Custard powder texture and long, long flavours. Peaches and cream. 91+
Malvasia Roxa 1907, da Quinta da Consolacao Old Madeira is wonderful! Superb balance of citric acidity and coffee flavours. 90
St Julien 1929, Calvet Colour good (and nowhere near as brown as one might expect). Cork in very good condition. Medium weight claret with some faded fruit, but also some currant fruit. this has lasted incredibly well. 87
Hermitage La Chapelle 1969, Jaboulet-Aine Rhone nose, but Pinot flavours (acidity, some of which is volatile). Initially showed well, but it then began to creak and show it's age. 85
Rausan Segla 1985 Reminded two of us of 1983 St Julien - rustic and leathery, with sweet fruit showing through. 88
Sociando Mallet 1986 Very impressive - people thought it super-second quality. Big wine with loads of fruit, structure and tannin. good balance. I don't think I'll open another one until at least 2000. 91+
Sassacia 1982 Good wine, elegant, but with surprising depth. Lovely sweet fruit. I always find this style of wine difficult to judge, but: 92
Valpolicella Valpantena Recioto 1990, Bertani Lively fizzy red. An excellent palate cleanser. Cheerful and refreshing. good acidity. 87
Eyes Whyne 1994 Cuvee Hopss, Mark Stalham, England From a half. Pressed 20/12/94, bottled 11/11/95. Tasted blind, and words such as "good", "beerenauslese" and "Austrian" were being thrown around. Certainly the best homemade wine I've tasted, and probably the best English! Made with the help of a freezer. Some botrytis(?). 89
Clos de Bourg Moulleux 1989, 1er Trie, Huet Tasted at three o' clock in the morning from an unchilled bottle, so I guess this might not be the fairest note. Seemed good with some yeastiness.

Tasting notes added to Fine Wine Diary 15/06/1996 Return to top

14/06/1996 (RJB)

Brown Brothers Semillon 1991, Family Select Victoria A good lemony Semillon with time ahead of it. Simple. 86

Tasting notes added to Fine Wine Diary 14/06/1996 Return to top

12/06/1996 (TNB)

Montepluciano d'Abruzzo Vigna Coste 94 (Cornacchia) Auditioning this again for a house red in a few years time. Amazing colour, loads of sweet fruit, mushrooms chestnuts, black cherries. Lots of tannins and good acidity behind. Opened up overnight -- very impressive fruit the next day. 90.
Muscato d'Alba 95 (Gagliardi) Tried again -- very pleasant refreshing apperetif. Yum! 85.
Gran Coronas "Black label" 82 (Torres) Straight, slightly leafy blackcurrent fruit. Fully resolved. Finishes slightly sweet, but otherwise very claret-like. Not much secondary flavour though. 87.
Durkheimer Fronhof riesling Auslese 94 (Darting) Excellent concentration, but a shade flabby - or at least lacking the tightness of great riesling. 87.

Tasting notes added to Fine Wine Diary 12/06/1996 Return to top

09/06/1996 (TNB)

Dolcetta d'Alba Vignabalja 91 (Gaja) Impressive concentration for a dodgy vintage, perhaps it will excite more in a few years, but for the moment the style doesn't really seem to sit well with the grape. 85.

Tasting notes added to Fine Wine Diary 09/06/1996 Return to top

09/06/1996 (RJB)

Barone Cornacchia Montepulciano d'Abruzzo 1993 (4.29 MWW) Good colour and structure, spicey and with pepper and cherries.Superb value for short term (few years?) drinking. 88
Barone Cornacchia Montepulciano d'Abruzzo 1994, Vigne Le Coste (6.99 MWW) Violets and oak(?) More finesse than the 1993 above, although on initial tasting I preferred the 1993 - it's probably just the extra age. Excellent colour. 89

Tasting notes added to Fine Wine Diary 09/06/1996 Return to top

Summer Sparklers, CF&WS, given by Richard Bailey 08/06/1996 (RJB)

Gratien & Meyer Saumur NV, Cuvee Flamme Brut (8.99 Oddbins) Medium-bodied honeyed Chenin. a touch off dry. 86
Miranda Louana Brut (3.99 MWW) Cheap Oz - and it shows. Clean. but so one-dimensional. 78
Yalumba Cuvee One (8.49 MWW) Good fruit and reasonable balance. Needs to be kept fairly cool if flabbiness is to be avoided. 85
Nautilus, Cuvee Marlborough NV Brut (11.49 MWW) Elegant and with mineral/sandy scents (a touch of the eponymous tetrabranchiate cephalopod that appears on the label?). 87?
Tesco's Cava (3.99) Typical cheap lemony Cava. 78
De Montpervier Champagne (10.99 Tesco) Quite good cheap Champagne. Some autolytic character, medium-bodied, but died a bit in the glass. 86
Quartet, Roederer Estate, Anderson Valley (13.99 MWW) Perhaps the wine of the evening. Bready/creamy nose with good autolyic character. Mark thought it Roederer Champagne. I'd like to try this again, but until then ... 88
Krug Grande Cuvee (66.49 Oddbins) Deeper colour than any of the other sparklers, and probably rather closed up. Lightly honeyed and (nicely) oxidative in style. Some light tannins. Not really enough in a small tasting measure to get a full picture. Most certainly not worth anywhere near this price. 88+?

Tasting notes added to Fine Wine Diary 08/06/1996 Return to top

07/06/1996 (RJB)

Scharzhof Riesling 1994, Egon Muller (6.99 MWW) Some nice acidity, apples and 'woody'. Not together, undistiguished. 82
Bott-Geyl Riesling 1992 Selection (6.99 MWW) Not obviously Riesling, but obviously Alsace. Lacks concentration. 79

Tasting notes added to Fine Wine Diary 07/06/1996 Return to top

Italian & Spanish wine at Oddbins 06/06/1996 (TNB)

Moscato Piemonte 94 (Gagliardo) Yummy, grapey fruit salad with bubbles. Lemony finish. Like a super ginger-beer! 86 (6.50)
Favorita 94 (Gagliardo) Standard Italian white! 80 (7.50(!))
Dolcetta Paulin 95 (Gagliardo) Modern, Cab-macy, not quite as rich as one would like. Slightly dilute 82 (9.99)
Batie Nebbiolo 93 (Gagliardo) Again, a bit dilute, modern style with not a lot of tannin and very high acidity. 82 (14.99)
Barolo 91 (Gagliardo) Quite tannic, interesting almondy nose, but again a bit thin in the mouth. Difficult vintage, I suppose but... 83 (20.00)
Montruc Azienda Barbera d'Asti 91 Concentrated slightly socky, blackberry fruit with longish finish, nice but not at the price 87 (19.00)
Sul Bric 90 Vino di Tavola from Piemonte. Idosynchratic, not obviously cabernet (which it is apparently), concentrated fruit with a slightly volatile edge perhaps. A class act, I suspect. 90+ (24.00)
Castillo Ygay white 78 (Murietta) Vibrant deep yellow colour, clearly alive with lemony complex fruit and fantastic finish. Delicious! 92 (24.00)
Castillo Ygay red 75 (Murietta) Pleasantly refined, probably needs more time and concentration than I gave it 90? (40.00 ish)

Tasting notes added to Fine Wine Diary 06/06/1996 Return to top

Dinner after the above 06/06/1996 (TNB)

Niederhausen Steinberg Auslese 75 (Statdomain Nahe) Been open a day, but still very fine elegant mature riesling fruit. Delicious. 90.
Chassagne Montrachet Vergers 89 (Ramonet) Severe sulphur problem (why do they do it). After a long time in the glass this blew off to reveal quite fine gingery fruit. Quite austere for an 89. 84 (because of the sulphur).
Cornas 85 (Verset) Quite highly toned, a classy wine with an almost burgundian quality. The more I studied it, the more interesting it became. 92.
Dom Laplace, Madiran 79 Leafy, Cab Franc sort of fruit. Alive and well, if a bit one-dimensional. 86.