19/03/2017 (TNB)

• Dolcetto d'Alba Superiore 2011 (F. Roddolo) Very substantial, rather tannic, and still quite hard. The fruit seems excellent and I think it just needs more time. A bare and rising.
• Derthona 2012 (Massa) An intruiging mixture of almost chalky minerality with riesling spice. In fact it is Timorasso. Engagingly different. Top at least

---

17/03/2017 (TNB)

• Chateau Cantemerle 1970 A touch citric and, as many wines from this vintage, a little ungenerous but a very enjoyable, classic Claret in good condition. Top

---

At Blandford Comptoir 12/03/2017 (TNB)

Food excellent by the way.

• Collioure Grenache blend Folio 2015 (Coume de Mas) Broad south of France white. Good balance and depth. Very enjoyable.
• Vina Tondonia Gran Reserva 1995 (Lopez de Heredia) Vibrant and lovely. The sort of mature Rioja that goes well with seafood (squid in this case). A touch of Bovril is very typical. Excellent. Bare
• Vina Tondonia Reserva blanco 1996 (Lopez de Heredia) Quite a deep colour. Pleasant, herby character with some depth but lacks the freshness of the best mature white Tondonia. A moderate

---

Dinner with friends 11/03/2017 (RJB)

• Champagne Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs 2007 (Le Mesnil) Lovely fizz with good aged flavours. Fine acidity, nuts and sawn wood. I have the feeling this would be even better in 5 to 10 years - it seems to have the structure to survive.
• Santa Barbara County Chardonnay 1993 (Au Bon Climat) Just under 10 years ago I wrote of this wine 'Restrained wine that reminds me more of a Macon than a Californian wine. This isn't showing any signs of age, but it isn't showing many signs of youth either. I'm not sure what to make of it!'. Well I'm still not sure what to make of it! Good (maybe too much) acidity with no signs of age but rather sterile and one-dimensional behind that. Fine to drink, but it gives the impression it has little more to give. maybe
• Chateau Margaux 1982 Joyous. Elegant, but deep. Violets and a touch of cigar. Just so drinkable! A very easy
• Chateau Rausan-Segla 1986 Showed well given it was in such illustrious company. Really very enjoyable with what 1986 tannins there might have been gently integrated. Violets again.

---

Oddities 09/03/2017 (TNB)

• Pinot Gris Kitterle 1989 (Schlumberger) This has the mosty beautiful, bright burnished gold colour with an appealing touch of green. Delicate, rather beautiful, highly evolved yet lively. Fading a little on the finish. Grand, like an aging but ill-maintained hotel. Top
• Riesling Le Dragon 2008 (Josmeyer) Dry, pure, relatively understated, I am becoming rather keen on this estate. Riesling spicyness of a good sort that refutes the idea that petrol character is some sort of fault. Very drinkable and rather good.
• Muscat Altenberg de Bergbieten grand cru 2010 (Mochel) I rather like this estate too, and particularly this wine which has a restrained grapey character and a nice length of just slightly off-dry, engaging fruit. Top Alsace Muscat is seriously undervalued. Bare
• Barbera d'Alba Superiore 2008 (Roddolo) Very old-fashioned, the grape's nose and palate only really emerged after 24 hours open. Blackberry fruit, moderate acid and generally serious wine. Possibly even
• Fino En Rama, Saca de Mayo 2015 (Equipo Navazos) The fruit comes from Valdespino's Macharnudo and hints at a slightly woody edge that I do not always warm to. This though is so fruity and vinous for a fine and thoroughly delicious.
• Madeira Bual 15 year old (Henriques and Henriques) Rather pleasant drinking with a tangy Madeira character, but I feel they are sweetening things a touch for the modern market, much as some sherry houses have done. It loses the bite of the real thing for me. Top

---