Recent wines 20/05/2017 (TNB)

• Champagne blanc de blancs 1er cru Vertus 2002 (Veuve Fourny When you get down to Vertus, it seems to me, one loses a toch of fineness and minerality that one gets higher up. But that said, this is really good Champagne from a fine vintage. It has its own slightly tougher appeal. And it's 15 years old and just reached its peak. Delicious.
• Riesling Dragon 2008 (Josmeyer) Understated, rather fine riesling nose, pretty much dry and long on the palate with some minerality. Fantastically drinkable. Bare
• Carso Sauvignon blanc 2005 (Kante) 12 years old and pretty delicious. There's maturity here but it maintains varietal character without any of the excesses that the grape, for me, is prone to. Top
• Sancerre La Grande Cote 2000 (F. Cotat) This must be pretty much the tops for Loire-style sauvignon blanc that ages. Lovely, mellowed varietal character, great texture and a sort of timeless quality. It seems younger than the previous wine. Really good.
• Aloxe Corton 1er cru Les Vercots 2005 (Follin-Arbelet) Fruit somewhere in the blackberry direction, in balance and drinkable but still quite tannic. A food wine. Quite assertive, a bit more power than beauty. Could one even keep it a bit longer? Good Burgundy. Bare perhaps.