The Diary - November 2007
These have been hiding on my Palm in unedited form for rather a long time - they may be even vaguer than usual!
- Blauer Spatburgunder 2002 (Ziereisen)
Lively Burgundy-like, quite gamy. Surprisingly decent.
- Jaspis Syrah 2003 (Zieriesen)
Porty, slightly sweet. Proper wine but I'm not wildly keen.
- Tokay Vieilles Vignes 1988 (Zind-Humbrecht)
Fresh fruit, spritzy, quite soft now. Very pleasantly drinkable.
- Meursault Genevrieres 1993 (F. Jobard)
Mineral and herby good but slightly odd. Good, but perhaps a slightly off bottle.
- Meursault Genevrieres 1992 (F. Jobard)
Higher-toned than the Charmes, quite deep colour (as in fact all these Jobard's had). Very attractive fruit. Bare
- Meursault Charmes 1993 (F. Jobard)
Gorgeous - very stylish. quite a lot of body. Lemony (like the others). Bare
- Meursault Charmes 1992 (F. Jobard)
Great richness. Very lovely but less fine than the 93. Top
- Clos des Papes 1990
Medicinally-edged fruit. Pretty serious. Tight still, brooding and a touch awkward. Top possibly more
- Clos des Papes 1988
Very mineral and fine. Absolutely lovely.
- Beaucastel 1998
Very reductive. Clears - a touch rustic, quite hot. Bare
- Beaucastel 1985
A touch rustic, bags of fruit. A bit gamy/bretty. Bare
- Monthelie Sur la Velle 1993 (Surmain)
Gorgeous, mineral, ravishing fruit. A star.
- Monthelie Sur la Velle 1990 (Surmain)
A stunning, fresh 90 with lifted fruit. It closes up a bit.
- Beaune Greves 1993 (Lafarge)
Lovely, balanced, high-toned.
- Beaune Greves 1990 (Lafarge)
Another star. Rich and long.
- Chateau Nairac 1990
Good but a bit simple compared to the next wine. A good
- Chateau Raymond Lafon 1979
Barley-sugar, botrytis, lots of complexity, lovely.
- Cockburns 1985
Rather reductive - opens out but still odd.
- Taylors 1980
Vibrant, fruit - mainly raspberry. Top Port. Excellent.
With two 47's, two 57's and a 67 (if I counted correctly) among the diners, it seemed to be a good idea to celebrate vintages ending in 7. Most of the wines fall into that category.
- Erdener Treppchen Spatlese 1990 (Moenchoff)
Very keroseney mature riesling. Good although with a touch of rusticity.
- Champagne Cuis 1976 (Diebold-Vallois)
One of the Vallois wines disgorged relatively recently by Diebolt. Fresh, mushroomy from time on the lees, stony, dry finish. Very good. Top
- Bernkasteler Doktor-Badstube 1967 (Deinhard)
From a half - delicate apricot nose, decent richness but a touch light on the finish.
- Chateau Carbonnieux blanc 1947
Light pink almost, rose-scented like old Claret, terribly attractive. fresh, with a hint of caramel. Not quite as startling as the other time I had this wine. Top
- Lavuille Haut Brion blanc 1975
Very fine, subtle, complex but with clear underlying strength. Recently transported, so probably showing a bit dumb. Still improving.
- Vouvray Clos de Bourg demisec 1957 (Huet)
Very delicate, the merest touch of sweetness. Piquant, completely fresh and young-seeming. Very fine.
- Volnay Santenots 1959 (Potinet-Ampeau)
Very ripe, sweet, gorgeously mature fruit. Fantastic.
- Brunello 1967 (Nardi)
Good fruit, possibly fairly simple but balanced and very nicely evolved.
- Rioja Reserva Especial 1947 (Palacio)
Fascinating nose: blackcurrants, orange-peel, bandages, touch of rubber. Completely fresh and very beautiful.
- Barolo Riserva 1967 (Prunotto)
Not really drinkable - probably just very reductive - needed to be opened a day in advance!
- Chateau Haut Bailly 1947
Great deep red colour. Hot-vintage fruit but good complexity. SA bit volatile towards the end. Bare
- Chateau Mouton d'Armailhacq 1947
Absolutely gorgeous, complex orange-peel and truffled fruit. Less hot - better balanced than the Haut Bailly with a piquant finish. Absolutely lovely.
- Spanna Monttalbano 1967 (Vallana)
Burnt fruit, complex, very individual - hard to describe its exoitic oddity. Great raspberry fruit.
- Chateau Haut Batailly 1957
Very good colour, nice balance. Very fine, fresh, medium-weight mature Claret. Will todays wines drink this well at age 50 in moderate vintages? I doubt it very much. Top
- Chateau Guiraud 1967
Deep orange colour, drinkable enough but the fruyit seems tired in some ways.
- Vouvray Haut Lieu Moelleux 1947
Ravishing green-rimmed orange-gold burnish. Great poise and acidity, slightly lighter weight than I remember but with gorgeous brown-suraged fruit on the long complex palate. A great wine.
- Tokaji Szamorodni 1957 (Monimpex)
Brown colour, burnt liquorice. Curious - one might be able to sip it as a liquer, but really not great as wine.
- Grahams 1977
Aniseed fruit, still quite closed and backwards. Needs time on this showing.
- Beaune Greves 2000 (Lafarge)
Bone (no pun intended) dry and fragrant. A less substantial wine in a difficult vintage (in the CdB) but there is no compromise in the easy-drinking direction. It's a nice wine, but won't appeal to those who like a touch of sweetness. A good
- Champagne Grande Reserve NV (A. Clouet)
Meaty, quite Pinot, substantial and yet well-balanced. Fairly dry. This is really rather good. Bare
- Champagne, Grand Cru 2000 (Marguet)
A touch of sulphur on opening. Caramel, quite rich, high dosage. Drinking this (after just tasting in France) it's a bit of an oddity, yet interesting, complex wine.
- Champagne 1999 (Cazals)
Clean, frothy, good length, almonds. Pretty dry. At first it seems a bit vacuous but it has real depth that emerges. It doesn't have the immediate, sexy appeal of the 98 though - rather, it is sophisticated. Bare
- Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru Baudes 1993 (H. Lignier)
Dark, slightly baked fruit, almost Clarety nose. Great complexity and just generally gorgeous. Top
- Haut Bages Liberal 1995
Very much straight down the middle Claret - dry, fairly savoury. Nothing very special beyond that and not going anywhere really, I suspect. Pleasant enough.
- Chateau Roc de Cambes 1988 Cotes de Bourg
Good, delicate, mature wine. Cedar and tobacco in a simple framework. Ideal for Sunday lunch.
- Chateau Sociando-Mallet 1987
Slightly fuller and purer than the wine above, but similar in style. More of a mineral note, but again good lunchtime stuff.
- Negru de Purkar 1967, Moldavia
60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Saperavi and 10% Rara Niagre. I think I got this ages back from Adnams. It has a cork about half the usual length. The wine is rather brown now, and there is a distinct volatility about it. It is past it, but it's still drinkable with the volatility marrying mature mushroomy flavours. Interesting to try after all this time. maybe!
- 1489 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2004 (Baroncini)
Fairly standard modern day red.
- Tokaji Aszu 5 puttonyos 2000 (Chateau Dereszla)
Lovely rich tangerine flavours. Quite sweet, but with decent acidity and good depth. I'm not sure quite where it is going, but it will surely improve a touch rather than decline. A strong